The way that businesses open and close in New York, hearts are broken and new love affairs begin. It can be hard to keep track. Is it S&P? Is it Eisenberg’s? Answer = All of the Above.

A Little History

I’m sure many of you know and love the venerable Fifth Avenue lunch counter directly across from the Flatiron Building, and you probably know it as Eisenberg’s Diner. It’s been there longer than you have. It was established in 1928, the year that construction began on the Chrysler Building! Yes, that’s right, 95 years ago!

Eisenberg’s was originally called S&P Sandwich Shoppe, named after the founders Charles Schwadron and Rubin Pulver. Although Monus Eisenberg bought the restaurant a year later, it didn’t become “Eisenberg’s Sandwich” until 1958, when Monus left the diner to his sons Elias and Bernie.

After a number of ownership changes, Eric Finkelstein and Matt Ross bought the place in 2018, vowing to retain the tradition, decor, and menu virtually unchanged. Five years later, it’s clear they’ve kept their word. And to show their allegiance to this institution’s history, they named it S&P Lunch, returning to its original moniker. (Partly because a ruffian made off with the legal rights to the name “Eisenberg’s.”)

And Today?

As the NYT restaurant critic Pete Wells so cleverly reported in this 2022 review, the chef that the owners installed, Dan Ross-Leutwyler, seems to devote himself to making everything slightly better — and in some cases, more than slightly — without dashing our nostalgic wish for the food of a different era about seven decades ago.

I was only at the OG Eisenberg’s once, for an unmemorable soup and grilled cheese. Just the way I like it. But the memory of the place itself has burned in my brain and heart. So much so that I wrote a song about it!

Milkshakes & Fries

When I visited S&P Lunch last week, I found all the dishes I had written about in my song — every single one. It took a bit of wrangling, but the short order cook found some chocolate ice cream to make me the milkshake I was longing for — after two servers told me they were out of ice cream. He’s my new favorite person on the planet.

I love the vibe in this place on a Thursday afternoon. There were plenty of seats open at the counter, though the booths and tables in back were full. They were playing quirky music, not too loud. All the signs behind the counter are so homemade and unfancy, it makes my heart happy to see them.

And the food is solidly delish. Everything you could want, except perhaps the disc-shaped fries. I guess that was a disappointment for me. I felt I had to go on a quest for a milkshake in a fluted fountain glass, and fries shaped like sticks. I found them eventually.

And this song, Milkshakes & Fries (At Eisenberg’s Diner) tells the story. Please check it out, listen, like, and subscribe!

A Brunch Favorite

During this month’s photo shoot, we discovered that S&P is a very popular weekend brunch spot. A dozen people queued outside in a solid downpour, huddling under leaky scaffolding while the damp chill penetrated all our layers and clamped onto our skin.

We did a quick-and-dirty shoot, with Phil and Amy under the scaffolding and me under an awning, trying not to shiver too much. I look a bit deer-in-the-headlights, I’m afraid!

I do love the outfit I was wearing, though! That makes a certain amount of discomfort worthwhile. It’s all thrift and gifts and I love the way the colors and textures harmonize like a rainy autumn painting.

Style Notes

• Autumn-toned velvet blazer with front pockets. Thrift NYC, 30 West 14th Street.
• Gray silk ribbed knit sweater with button placket by Barbara Bui. Judi Harvest Chelsea studio sale.
• Black leather shorts with pockets BCBGMaxazria. Crossroads Trading, 47 West 13th Street.
• Gray plastic Marni pumps with brown leather straps. Crossroads Trading.
• Vintage Gucchi purse with equestrian gold buckle strap fastening. Steal of a deal from a friend.
• Seven-goddess necklace in semi-precious stones. Gift from a friend.